How to rappel!

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Some routes cannot be accessed from the base, and instead, require an approach from the top. Rappelling to the start of the route may be necessary for these situations. If you are accessing a route from above, it is VERY important that you know exactly where the route climbs. Never rappel blindly. Knowing how to rappel also serves as a safety measure. If you are climbing a multi-pitch and need to bail off the route, rappelling is often your only way out.

You need a belay tool that doubles as a rappel device, a Personal Anchor System PAS and a backup to safely set up your rappel once you reach your anchor. The best device to use when you are learning to rappel is a tubular belay device such as an ATC.

The first thing you need to do before setting up your rappel is to inspect your anchor and secure yourself with your PAS. Many climbing routes have only rap rings on bolts — two fixed points through which you can thread your rope to rappel.


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If you are satisfied with the condition of the anchor, use two locking carabiners to connect your PAS into each point. At this point, you can clean any gear off the anchor except for your PAS. Once you have secured yourself into both anchor points with your PAS, pull up a loop of rope and attach it with a clove hitch or overhand knot to a carabiner on your harness.

Everything You Need to Know on How to Rappel with a GriGri

This quick step will prevent you from losing the rope if you accidentally drop it. Untie your rope from your harness and thread it through the anchor.


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Tie a clove hitch or overhand knot in the threaded end and attach it to another carabiner on your harness. Now untie the first overhand knot you tied and pull the rope through the anchor until you reach the halfway mark. Carefully coil the rope as you pull it through. Tie a stopper knot into each end of the rope. It only takes a few seconds and knots in the ends to prevent you from accidentally rappelling off the end of your rope.

Rock climbing and rappelling

Be sure to toss your ropes away from the cliff to reduce the chance of these getting tangled or caught up on various features. If possible, check with your belayer to see if both rope ends reached the ground. Once you are confident your rope has made it to the ground, make a bight in both rope strands and pass them through the parallel openings in your belay tube. Next, pass a locking carabiner through the two rope strands and the cable on your device.

Attach the carabiner to the belay loop on your harness, ensuring it is locked. Sometimes you may wish to extend your device away from your harness to rappel. There are several benefits to extending the belay device including easier use of the prusik. One great way to back up your rappel is with the use of a prusik knot. To tie a prusik, you will need a length of 6mm cordelette also known as an accessory cord.

A correctly tied prusik knot will slide down the ropes in hand but will auto-block if you let go of the brake hand for any reason. Once you are confident that your entire system is set up correctly, take up the slack through your rappel device and slowly weight the rope. After weighting the rappel, remove your PAS from the anchor. Sit back in your harness with at least one hand holding the rope in the brake position below your device. Feed the ropes through the device as you lower yourself back to the ground.

To do so, the person on the ground will hold both ends of the rope loosely in their hands. Then you can rappel safely. Or more safely. I'd rather tie my shoelaces into a prussik and clip that to my belt loop than do this.

If your right hand comes off the rope at all you're toast. Ever tried to hold yourself up with one hand? How about one hand on a rope?

The reason you wrap your body is because it creates friction. If your right hand isnt holding on then there is no friction and you're basically just relying on the strength of your left hand. My thought is that when you let go with your right hand, the brake side of the rope will fall behind your back and it would be hard to retrieve it in time.

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RAPPEL | meaning in the Cambridge English Dictionary

Where it really shines is on steep ground that's not quite vertical, as it needs no extra equipment, so it works well when you only brought along a confidence rope and nothing else. I've abseiled like this a number of times both on vertical rock an steep ground, and before the invention of the figure 8 descender it was the only way climbers abseiled.

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How cool! If you see one, report it for us. Low Effort and Reposts Low effort posts are subject to removal at the mods' discretion, No common reposts,reposts from the last month or top Welcome to Reddit, the front page of the internet. Become a Redditor and join one of thousands of communities. Want to add to the discussion? Post a comment! Create an account. If your hand slips, you die. Could try the other way though, maybe? Just trade lefts for rights and the wrap and the friction will be just the same. Yes it does. You have to go very slowly.